(I wrote these two vignettes, the former still unfinished, a couple years back. The main piece on which I am working presently is still being researched, and I hope to post it soon. I also am tempted to write on the effects of starvation while suffering through a visa-extension process at the overheated headquarters of the military police in [pick your Latin American country], but I won't, since I eventually made my way out of that bureaucratic inferno and had a delicious tropical fruit concoction on the corner.)
AUNTIE LOURDES' KITCHEN
I'm convinced guidebooks on the ins and outs, who's who, what's what and hip, happenin' São Paulo are all missing the crucial element of "the real, live meat o' the matter" to get to know this city. If you really want to know what makes São Paulo (or any city) unique, your best bet is to get yourself invited to as many family kitchens as you can. Having talked my way in and eaten my way through quite a number now, I am voting Tia Lourdinha's as São Paulo's number one. Tia Lourdinha is a resident of this megalopolis for more than 25 years, hailing from a little city in Minas Gerais. Her cozy kitchen is the gathering spot for the nuclear family (5 members), girlfriends or wives of the nuclear family's sons (1 wife and usually 1 girlfriend at any given time), the cousin on the 6th floor of the same building who has no relation to anyone by blood but who walks in at all hours of the day and night and who has left her car key here for general use (1), any visiting relatives of the upstairs cousin (1-3), the uncle, aunt and cousin, also not realted by blood, on the 15th floor (3), Tia Lourdes' spirit-sensing, mind-reading older sister (1), and any number of friends, or family, or friends of family, or friends of friends who happen to be near and need or want to come in (unlimited number). Lively kitchen conversations (which may or may not include food but always take place at the innocuous table have no boundaries whatsoever. Gossip, politics and embarrassing bathroom stories (including bouts of stomach worms) are all game. ...... (unfinished)
EAT THIS
Brazilian’s, like many Latin American’s, are not too comfortable or familiar with the concept of vegetarian. While there are many vegetarians in the larger cities, the guys working at the corner fast grill just aren’t sure how to react. So, I was traveling around with some friends, one being a vegetarian who didn’t speak Portuguese. I asked the guy behind the counter which menu items contained no meat. I was met with a blank stare. I then asked about the omelets. Mel: “Do they have meat?” Grill Man: “No.” Mel (just to make sure): “Just cheese?” Grill Man: “That’s it.” So, we ordered a cheese omelet for the vegetarian. Naturally, it comes with bits of ham. I asked the grill man to explain, and I am faced with the same blank stare. I say: “This has meat.” His response: “No. No. It doesn’t have meat, no. Just ham.” So much for animal rights.
AUNTIE LOURDES' KITCHEN
I'm convinced guidebooks on the ins and outs, who's who, what's what and hip, happenin' São Paulo are all missing the crucial element of "the real, live meat o' the matter" to get to know this city. If you really want to know what makes São Paulo (or any city) unique, your best bet is to get yourself invited to as many family kitchens as you can. Having talked my way in and eaten my way through quite a number now, I am voting Tia Lourdinha's as São Paulo's number one. Tia Lourdinha is a resident of this megalopolis for more than 25 years, hailing from a little city in Minas Gerais. Her cozy kitchen is the gathering spot for the nuclear family (5 members), girlfriends or wives of the nuclear family's sons (1 wife and usually 1 girlfriend at any given time), the cousin on the 6th floor of the same building who has no relation to anyone by blood but who walks in at all hours of the day and night and who has left her car key here for general use (1), any visiting relatives of the upstairs cousin (1-3), the uncle, aunt and cousin, also not realted by blood, on the 15th floor (3), Tia Lourdes' spirit-sensing, mind-reading older sister (1), and any number of friends, or family, or friends of family, or friends of friends who happen to be near and need or want to come in (unlimited number). Lively kitchen conversations (which may or may not include food but always take place at the innocuous table have no boundaries whatsoever. Gossip, politics and embarrassing bathroom stories (including bouts of stomach worms) are all game. ...... (unfinished)
EAT THIS
Brazilian’s, like many Latin American’s, are not too comfortable or familiar with the concept of vegetarian. While there are many vegetarians in the larger cities, the guys working at the corner fast grill just aren’t sure how to react. So, I was traveling around with some friends, one being a vegetarian who didn’t speak Portuguese. I asked the guy behind the counter which menu items contained no meat. I was met with a blank stare. I then asked about the omelets. Mel: “Do they have meat?” Grill Man: “No.” Mel (just to make sure): “Just cheese?” Grill Man: “That’s it.” So, we ordered a cheese omelet for the vegetarian. Naturally, it comes with bits of ham. I asked the grill man to explain, and I am faced with the same blank stare. I say: “This has meat.” His response: “No. No. It doesn’t have meat, no. Just ham.” So much for animal rights.
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